January 19, 2014 at 3:43 pm
my horse has a tender mouth and will fight bit when going aroun the 2ed barrel i am useing a tom thumb bit now and cant use a hackamoore because he will not stop (dont have enough controll over him) do any of you guys have any suggestions on witch bit i should try? thanksJanuary 19, 2014 at 3:56 pmNinaJDTopics Started: 8Replies Posted: 139
change the bit asap.
tom thumbs are pretty harsh, have you tried putting him in just a snaffle bit? Sweet iron works well or copper.
If you want something with shanks you can also do a snaffle with short shanks.
Or you can go to Mylers webpage and check out their information.
with him having a tender mouth, I would honestly try anything, but get him out of that tom thumb for sure.
"Take the time it takes, so that it takes less time."
"Expect a lot, accept a little, reward often."
Pat ParelliJanuary 19, 2014 at 10:50 pmKylieTopics Started: 2Replies Posted: 4
Howdy! I had a problem with this a while back. Turns out even a curb was becoming a problem and I switched to snaffle. Presto! The curb was to harsh and her mouth wasn’t hard yet so the snaffle worked great. Hope this helps you and remember- gentleness will always win. :)!! Good luck.
Speak your mind but ride a fast horse. -AnonymousJanuary 19, 2014 at 11:16 pm
Ok thank you I will try that KylieJanuary 19, 2014 at 11:17 pm
Ok I’ll try a snaffle thanksJanuary 22, 2014 at 12:01 pmG & STopics Started: 16Replies Posted: 253
2 other things to check:
1) Is the bit the correct width? If it is too narrow it can pinch, and if too wide it can slide around too much.
2) Is the bit the ideal diameter for your horse? Thinner bits are more severe than thicker bits. To better understand this concept, get a friend to help you and have the friend lay a piece of string across your bare are, grap the two ends and pull down. The do the same thing with a wide piece of ribbon. The narrower piece of string will put all the force onto a smaller area of your arm, while the wider ribbon will spread the same amount of force over a wider area, so the amount of force per square inch will be less. Think of stillto heels versus thicker cuban heels. Stiletto heels have been known to literally put dents into wooden
floors.January 22, 2014 at 6:00 pmcruisecontrolTopics Started: 1Replies Posted: 11
Definitely try a different bit! Something that has breaks when you want them but is inactive when you aren’t using it. I ride english but I know mylers are nice and I used an oval link elevator and that was really nice because it fit like a snaffle so it was comfy when my horse was behaving, but if I gave it a good pull the elevator action kicks in and put some pressure over his poll and in his mouth. More mouth than poll though but was very effective until we moved up levels and started going over bigger fences faster. he got more excited and we upgraded to a bigger elevator which could also be an option. Also, try having soft elbows but firm hands. This is effective with my horse because I can keep a soft connection so he isn’t uncomfortable but he has to accept his rein length and obey so he gets over it.
Bits can make a huge difference so I would switch it up until you find a compromise…one he likes but that works and has breaks for you.
The triple threat of riding = EVENTING! 😉February 26, 2014 at 12:50 pmcaroline_cunningharmTopics Started: 0Replies Posted: 5
I have really good luck with french link snaffles. Have used pelhems in the past and none of my horses go good on them.February 26, 2014 at 1:35 pmwyoenglishriderTopics Started: 4Replies Posted: 101
Yikes! Here is another vote for getting rid of the Tom Thumb. I have also had good luck with french link snaffles, like caroline_cunningharm suggested. Also, perhaps have his teeth checked….could be time for a float! 🙂February 26, 2014 at 2:40 pmekamerinTopics Started: 0Replies Posted: 1
Hi! I also love the french link snaffle .. it is very soft and almost everyone likes them. Going back to basics with a soft bit and getting things under control is always a great plan. If you absolutely have to have a little more, Greg Darnell makes an amazing argentine snaffle from sweet iron that is a good intermediate step between a plain snaffle and a leverage snaffle. Remember when you use a leveraged snaffle to pay attention to the curb strap… the pressure in the mouth is affected by how tight you have the strap.February 26, 2014 at 2:53 pmLeramyTopics Started: 0Replies Posted: 3
More training and a lighter bit or no bit at all. Control isn’t about what hardware you use, its about communication from rider to horse. Less harsh the better.February 26, 2014 at 3:57 pmfiddleronthehoofTopics Started: 1Replies Posted: 6
My first thought is that you should teach your horse a reliable stop on a “whoa,” which doesn’t involve the bit. No bit is going to stop your horse if he doesn’t know how to stop. Start on the ground in a halter, long lead and with a dressage whip or training stick. Walk forward with your horse at your shoulder with about a foot of slack in the lead. When you want to stop, first say, “whoa,” then stop walking and GENTLY tap him on the chest with the training stick. Don’t pull on the lead, let him walk into it. Praise him if he even slows down. Work on this, gradually giving him more and more lead rope, until he is stopping on your voice command and following your lead in stopping your own body. Then get on and walk forward as before loose reins (or even better do it in the halter as he now knows how to stop in the halter). Say, “whoa,” stop your body motion in the saddle and tap him on the chest with the training stick. Again, praise him and pet him on the neck when he does it right. Don’t practice over and over at the walk. I repeat DO NOT keep practicing. He now knows how to do this, so there is no need to keep teaching it to him.
Now do the same mounted exercise at the jog and lope starting slow and easy until he wants to stop on a “whoa” or at least gear down one gait. You should not be touching his head or mouth with the reins as there will be no need.
Once he’s reliably stopping from the lope, try walking your barrel pattern, and stopping at various places at barrels, between barrels and at the end of the pattern so he doesn’t know where he’s going to be asked to stop. Gradually quit asking him to stop on the pattern and ask him only to stop when he’s finished it. Increase the speed until you’re at racing speed. You should have a fantastic stopper who will go in any bit, a hack or no bit at all! I did this with a former racing Appenix QH who had no stop and wound up with the best stop in the barn completely bridleless. Good luck.February 26, 2014 at 5:02 pmsumdayzTopics Started: 0Replies Posted: 1
I have had great sucess with the reining snaffle, used it on both qtr horses and TBs. I had a OTTB that it worked great on -he loved the roller! The TB I have now uses one when we trail ride and she has the lightest mouth of any horse around.February 27, 2014 at 6:48 amashley_turnerTopics Started: 0Replies Posted: 1
I agree with Leramy and the post below hers, the problem isn’t the bit totally, you need to go back to basics, you can’t ride tack or rely on it. You need to have proper communication with the horse so he respects you enough to stop when you ask him to either with your seat or with your voice. When my young mare started undersaddle her whoa was less than ideal, I got on her in a round pen, bareback and bridle less with just a rope halter and the lead on only one side, we worked for a while together until she realized that I want her to whoa when I ask with my seat and my voice, I had NO grip on the lead rope what so ever. I now have conifidnece if we are out on the cross country course and my rein breaks (heaven forbid!) I will be able to ask her to whoa and she will gladly do it. Best of luck to you two! I’m sure you will do great!!February 6, 2015 at 10:26 amRIOTopics Started: 0Replies Posted: 1
I agree with those that have talked about going back to the basics to develop a soft stop from back to front. The problem with the second barrel could be that the horse is stiff going around the second barrel. All horses are hollow on one side and stiff on the other and the fact that the horse does well on barrels 1 & 3 suggests that going around the second barrel is his stiff side. The horse may need suppling and straightness exercises to be able to bend around the second barrel. I do not think that changing the bit will have any effect on his performance. The horse could also be very stiff in the poll if he is running through the bit. Rarely are horses ‘hard in the mouth’ requiring more bit. It is usually the fact that the poll is stiff and the horse braces against the bit. Again suppling the poll through exercises may help. The poll cannot be suppled by pulling with the hands. Pulling creates a brace in the poll and hence the horse bends at the 3rd cervical vertebrae. Try carrot stretches and anything that will encourage your horse to lick and chew and yawn. This relaxes the poll. Many natural horsemanship groundwork exercises that are performed slowly and without tension will encourage the horse to lick and chew. Happy riding!
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